Just prior to it being shipped, John had broken it apart for me per my request. Each sub assembly will be pinned to add strength to the structure.
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CDR Tacket |
D7 Fin - Rebuild Johnny57's |
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Posts: 5 (10/26/08 19:05:15) |
I received Johnny57's Klingon this week. He noted the neck had a crack at the base of the main body. Here is a shot of his completed work. He did a
great job putting it together and painting it.
Just prior to it being shipped, John had broken it apart for me per my request. Each sub assembly will be pinned to add strength to the structure. |
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 7 (10/26/08 19:12:35) |
There was only a 1/2" rod sticking out of the neck on the back end and an inch on the front end. When I assembled the first one, I opted to extend the
brass tube further into the body and the front scoop. This worked out very well for mine and I employed it on this build as well. This should add much needed
strength and keep the long neck from cracking at either end.
Last Edited By: CDR Tacket
10/26/08 19:14:38.
Edited 1 times.
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 8 (10/27/08 17:38:58) |
I've sanded and reprimed the surface and found numerous pinholes that require attention. To fill these I use red spot putty with MEK (Methyl Ethyl
Ketone). MEK will dilute the spot putty, which makes it very easy to apply with a small paint brush and provide a cleaner repair of the surface. This will
take numerous tries, but will require less sanding of surrounding material and loss of any detail.
From this photo you can see the pinholes.
From this photo it shows the uneven areas where I removed the detail.
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 9 (11/13/08 18:16:28) |
Sorry for the delay, I've been building sets for our latest production of Starship Farragut. Filming started this past Sunday and should continue on until
Spring of next year. I plan to get this Klingon done just before Thanksgiving. Now back to topic.
Cleaned up the "Ice Cream Scoop" and applied the plastic wrap over the area. Make sure it is nice and tight. Then cut-out the center to allow the top piece to fit inside.
The top piece is now fixed of all pinholes. At this point the underside still needs to be done, but that will wait until after the mating surface is corrected..
Add the Bondo to the mating surface and then put the pieces together. The plastic wrap will keep it from attaching to the "Ice Cream Scoop."
Now allow the excess to squeeze out as you apply pressure to the two pieces together.
Once the Bondo has setup but not fully hardened, pull the pieces appart. It should look something like this.
Just take the xacto knife and trim off the excess.
Here is a photo of the two pieces together after being cleaned up. Note: Spot putty will still be required to fix some areas.
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 10 (11/16/08 18:38:55) |
Filled in the secondary hull, sanded and redrilled.
Used the same trick for the neck. Plastic wrap and Bondo.
Clean up the piece and you've got a nice fit.
Here you can see how much material was added to position the neck just right.
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AModelMan |
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Posts: 264 (11/16/08 23:05:13) |
Wow! This is great! I'm gonna use this on my next one. I've got a couple touchups on the old one still to do, but I'm ready for number two! THe
steps you give here and the pix are enlightening.
Rock on!
Best Regards,
-t |
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 11 (11/17/08 11:32:32) |
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 12 (11/18/08 18:19:20) |
Just as I had done for my kit, I created another base for Johnny57's Klingon. The base was cut from cherry wood using the Klingon base supplied in the kit
as a template.
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Johnny57 |
Klingon build | ||
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Posts: 4 (11/18/08 18:31:34) |
Can't wait to see this in person.
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 14 (12/23/08 20:48:12) |
Well, I wanted to get this completed by Thanksgiving, but life tends to get in the way of my building some times.
In any event, process has been slowed by some broken ribs on the engine section where it meets the hull. I had to drill holes into the remaining pieces to add wire so the bondo would have something to attach too. Forgot to get pictures of the wires part, but Here are some pictures of the bondo procedure.
The first attempt to fix the area of the ribs didn't work out like planned.
I had to take a drastic step and mix up some more bondo and prepare to glue the engine in place. What this meant was that I would need to do the re-sculpting of the engine ribs directly on the hull.
Also in the next photo you can see that I drilled a hole on the top rib of the Neck. The hole is drilled diagonally into the main hull. This will provide extra strength to keep the neck area from cracking away from the main hull. It still needs that area sanding and primed but you get the idea.
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 15 (12/25/08 21:11:29) |
Merry Christmas everyone.
I took a little time tonight to get some more work done on the engine impulse deck. Here are some pics
Should be able to finish this up and start painting this weekend. |
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AModelMan |
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Posts: 272 (12/26/08 03:56:37) |
Grill work is astounding! That's a technique I have to learn! Thanks for sharing these. A Merry Merry to everyone!
Best Regards,
-t |
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CDR Tacket |
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Posts: 17 (12/28/08 19:18:47) |
All of I've got left to do is the silver painting and decaling. Unfortunately since I put the decals on one by one it is going to take a long time. Here are some pics of the latest progress.
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AModelMan |
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Posts: 273 (12/28/08 20:01:43) |
Smooooth!
Best Regards,
-t |
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