POD DOOR Motor! Too good to be true!

Author	Comment
Fluke2	POD DOOR Motor! Too good to be true!	Lead	[-]
Posts: 40 (04/21/07 07:03:03) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None It would be a sin not to share this. A worm gear drive (taken form a simple portable CD player) for the EVA pod door. Of course It would be cut down to just the worm gear and it's motor, as you can see there is plenty of room inside the 'ear muff' section of the 1/12th scale resin EVA Pod. A thin flexible ribbon piece would be attatched to the door then to the worm gear box. quiet and smooth.... I'm sure that it will work just fine. Moves at a perfect speed with 1.5V applied... the modeling possibilities are endless! The drive assembly is thinner than it looks almost flush inside the ear muff before custom fitting and the worm gear has more torgue than one would expect.
SAL9000	Re: POD DOOR Motor! Too good to be true!	#1	[-]
Posts: 72 (04/22/07 12:54:11) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Very cool! Keep in mind that the door must travel slightly into the earmuff area. That's why the rim is missing on one side. But if this assembly is flat enough, it could miss the door completely. I can't wait to see this in action! --Jim
Unregistered(d)	door	#2	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/22/07 20:49:02) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	You'll need a lot more clearance than you think!
Fluke2	Re: door	#3	[-]
Posts: 40 (04/25/07 22:24:42) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	YUP! Thank you...you are correct....even after cutting the unit down to nothing.....the door takes up all the room needed. I am building mine as the 'actual' interior but there is a chance that the divice might fit between the side interior pads/panels and the ear muff interior. I thought it was too good to be true $:\$
Unregistered(d)	electric door	#4	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/26/07 19:40:22) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I used a servo motor located under the right control panel. Even then I had to strip it down to the basics. The earmuffs need to be open for door clearance and batteries.
Fluke2	Re: electric door	#5	[-]
Posts: 40 (04/27/07 19:52:57) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thats sounds interesting....What kind or brand of mini servo did you use? I would be powering my Pod from the base so I guess that makes it a tad easier. Thanks for the heads up.
Unregistered(d)	electric door	#6	[-]
Posts: 0 (04/27/07 22:32:29) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I was experimenting so i used 2 used servos (cheap). Not mini's I just gutted them down to the motor and gears. The door has to be re-engineered to slide very smoothly otherwise it's a waste of time. This is already done and has an open momentary on one side and a close momentary on the other. I used the same type of servo to make a 'transmission' which operates the pod arms as well. Now I'm trying to cram all this together and still work. Paulbo keeps coming up with new stuff though. Oh well.
Fluke2	Re: electric door	#7	[-]
Posts: 40 (04/28/07 08:30:45) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Sounds TENSE! but cool. After sleeping on it...I'm thinking that the 'worm gear' might be better for my project ....ONE: The motor/drive is CHEAP and easy to get. TWO: there should be enough room behind the control panel/side padding to place it all and the flexible ribbin connector to the door will give the door an 'easier ride' .....I still may need to dig out some room inside the ear muff...there is lots of resin in the center section thats for sure. But of course...This is all just theory.....even now I should be working on my 1/32 Flying Sub for Wonderfest...YIKES! Off to the work bench!
Paulbo	Re: electric door	#8	[-]
Posts: 211 (04/28/07 14:20:07) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	mikeylikesitiiaolcom: "Paulbo keeps coming up with new stuff though. Oh well." I'm not doing it on purpose! (OK, yes, I'm coming up with new details on purpose, but not to make your job harder, just to make my own finished unit better!) I'm hoping to get the rest of the interior painted up this week so I can finish its assembly. Other than the paint, I'll be working out my lightsheet templates so I can use as few pieces as possible. With that done, I'll start work on my first vacuforming buck which, if I'm successful, will result in my first set of physical parts that'll be for sale for the kit. On the door drive - seeing the wormgear in the other earmuff gave me an idea: why not push the door open and pull it closed instead of pull it open and push it closed? You'd still have to do some work on the earmuff interior, but it won't be in the way of the door. (Besides, if I'm successfull in my vacuforming, you'll want to do some surgery on your door anyway - HINT.) Paulbo -- Pod@ParaGrafix.com
Fluke2	Re: electric door	#9	[-]
Posts: 40 (04/28/07 15:48:15) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	OH man! Just when you thought it was safe to go into the water Vacu parts huh? WOW! As much as I dig the 'creative, scratch build' process of modeling....I'm just as tired of spending six months, twelve months or more on ONE kit! Paul...sign me up for what ever you have planned! Push vs Pull?.....I'm a bit confused....with the worm gear thing...its the same amount of work iether direction...me thinks?
SAL9000	Re: electric door	#10	[-]
Posts: 72 (08/17/07 19:01:14) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hey Fluke, I saw the new shots on your pod site. What are you using to cover the bearing on your door hinge? It looks like some kind of end-cap. I assume the door is still removable (since it isn't painted) --Jim
Fluke	Re: electric door	#11	[-]
Posts: 96 (08/17/07 20:42:49) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	First ...So that I can finish this thing by the end of Sept (07)I'm going with a manual door. Second: Thats just a piece of cut round styrene that has a round plastic tube glued to it and that tube fits snug like inside the baring. The baring is then JB welded to a piece of aluminum that is secured to the door....that way I could do the final tweaking to get the door to work well and fit nicely up to the back wall. The door is removable. I hope to find SOME time this weekend to make more progress. Thanks for looking and I hope this helps. If you can't dazzle them with your paint job baffle then with interior details!
SAL9000	Re: electric door	#12	[-]
Posts: 72 (08/18/07 15:21:32) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	You know it's amazing how something that you feel certain is going to be a lot of trouble and pain, ends up being a piece-of-cake. I went to my local RC shop and found a nice little bearing for $3. I came home and spent 2 hours on my pod and it all worked beautifully. The door hinge is now 90% done! So cool seeing it all come together. --Jim
lunadude	Re: electric door	#13	[-]
Posts: 141 (08/18/07 17:48:32) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Photos please?
SAL9000	Re: electric door	#14	[-]
Posts: 72 (08/18/07 19:40:59) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Here are some pics. I'll post these on my site shortly. Here it is with it's plastic holder half formed. I'll finish this tomorrow. The bearing is 15mm outside diameter, a little smaller than the hole provided in the top of the pod. I cut down the short post on the top of the door so that it's flush, then drilled a hole in it. The whole thing will be covered by the cap in the end. Below are 2 more shots showing just the bearing on the top of the door. I just have a nut on the other side holding it on. I'll probably glue the threads once it's in permanently. I mounted a circular plate on the inside of the bearing, drilled a hole in the center, inserted a screw and then filled it with epoxy. Works really well. --Jim
lunadude	Re: electric door	#15	[-]
Posts: 141 (08/18/07 20:56:59) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	NIFTY. So you found the bearing at an RC model shop? What is the piece usually used for? When I go looking, I want know what to ask for. Thanks for sharing!
Paulbo	Re: electric door	#16	[-]
Posts: 211 (08/19/07 05:50:17) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Excellent! I don't know if anyone else has found this on theirs, but my door "hinge" is slightly off center (about 1/4"). This is WAY easier and better than the alternative I'd thought of. Thanks! Paulbo -- Pod@ParaGrafix.com
SAL9000	Re: electric door	#17	[-]
Posts: 72 (08/19/07 08:28:25) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	lunadude: It's a sealed wheel bearing for a radio controlled race car. I think it goes inside the tire hubs between the hub and the axel. I asked for a "wheel bearing" and he asked "what size?". Since I only had a rough idea, he brought out a big parts case with about 60 varieties inside. They have every size from tiny 3mm diameter ones to silver dollar sizes. I knew the door hole was 16-17mm diameter so I got one at 15mm dia and 4mm high with an inside dimension of 10mm. They are really inexpensive so get a few and you can play around. I'll post more pictures once I fine-tune the door assembly. --Jim [with thanks to Fluke for the initial idea] :)
Fluke	Re: electric door	#18	[-]
Posts: 96 (08/19/07 16:25:49) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thank you and you welcome Jim. Yup...I noticed that the door needed stern and smooth operation from the top and then discovered that it needed something ultra smooth as the door bottom track at the so I used some scrap aluminum sheet and polished it down to 1000 cloth...it looks good and works very well. My door opens and closes just by tilting the pod from left to right. Those bearings are very cool to work with. One thing to keep in mind folks. The polished steel around them will glue much better to resin or styrene if you use a Dremel and rough up the surface first....you would be in a world of hurt later on after your pod was assembled and your door came off the baring assembly or became loose. I used the uluminum bracket so I could do some final 'tweaking' to get the door to fit nicely inside the rear doorway opening. The door is rather thick and as is closes it takes up some floor space. My floor and interior is all from Paul's designs ( well I started with his ideas and made some changes ) The gap between where the door rides is rather wide as well so a inner wall will be put in place, painted dark grey to keep things tidy and so inner detials, wires etc can not be seen. Here are some new pics. If you can't dazzle them with your paint job baffle then with interior details!
SAL9000	Re: electric door	#19	[-]
Posts: 72 (08/19/07 16:40:54) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hey Troy. Is that J-B weld holding that bearing on? Is it better than regular epoxy? --Jim
Fluke	Re: electric door	#20	[-]
Posts: 96 (08/20/07 15:46:59) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Sorry Jim, I tried to answer last night but the site would not load. Yes thats J-B weld. I figured it would be best cuz I was going from metal to metal. No matter what glue used I would rough up the surface of the bearing so that the glue has something to bond to. Happy modeling gents! If you can't dazzle them with your paint job baffle then with interior details!

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